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Learn About Jewelry

Learn Basic Information Regarding Jewelry and Watches Before Shopping. Learn Diamond Grades, Difference Between Metals Use In Jewelry and More!


First, Our Diamonds:  Belgium Diamonds… A wide variety of certified Diamonds (Hand Selected, By Nick Stadler) from the “Antwerp Diamond Exchange” are available to tailor your personal desire. Unlike Other Jewelry Stores & Chains (which choose from pre-selected diamond “bundles/packages”), You will enjoy all of our individually Hand Selected & GIA Certified Belgium Diamonds which are recognized Globally for their higher rate of approval.


Table Of Contents

Figure 1 – Diamond Clarity Chart Figure 2 – Diamond Color Chart
Figure 3 – Understanding Gemstone Facets Figure 4 – Common Gemstone Cuts
Figure 5 – Precious Metal Chart Figure 6 – White/Silver Precious Metal Chart
Figure 7 – Common Types of Earrings Figure 8 – Common Gemstone Settings
Figure 9 – Ring Anatomy Figure 10 – Chemicals & Jewelry



Figure 1 – Diamond Clarity Chart

The Diamond Clarity Chart has grades from “FL” (being the ideal option) to “I3” (being the least desirable option). At Stadlers Jewelry we hand pick All of our Diamonds and prefer the range of “FL”—”I” with the option for any requested grade as well.

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Figure 2 – Diamond Color Scale

The Diamond Clarity Chart has grades from “D” (being the ideal option) to “S—Z” (being the least desirable option). At Stadlers Jewelry we carry Diamonds in the Full Range of Diamond Color.

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Figure 3 – Understanding Diamond Facets

Facets are flat faces on geometric shapes. The organization of naturally occurring facets was key to early developments in crystallography, since they reflect the underlying symmetry of the crystal structure. Gemstones commonly have facets cut into them in order to improve their appearance by allowing them to reflect light.  Of the hundreds of facet arrangements that have been used, the most famous is probably the round brilliant cut, used for diamond and many colored gemstones.

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Figure 4 – Diamond Cut Types

The choice of diamond cut is often decided by the original shape of the rough stone, location of internal flaws or inclusions, the preservation of carat weight, and popularity of certain shapes among consumers. The cutter must consider each of these variables before proceeding.
The dominating round brilliant diamonds are a classic and give you the most reflection and brilliance. Simultaneously, giving a fancy diamond cut as a precious jewel on specific celebrations became a part of tradition. A Heart cut diamond has romantic symbolism so it is a common gift for Valentine’s Day or wedding anniversary. The pear-shaped diamonds look like a drop of water and the shape is suitable for diamond earrings, dinner rings or a necklace. The most famous shapes are: Princess, Cushion, Heart, Pear, Marquise, Radiant, Asscher cut, Emerald, Oval.

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Figure 5 – Colored Precious Metal Chart

Because of the softness of pure (24k) gold, it is usually alloyed with base metals for use in jewelry, altering its hardness and ductility, melting point, color and other properties. Alloys with lower carat rating, typically 22k, 18k, 14k or 10k, contain higher percentages of copper or other base metals or silver or palladium in the alloy. Copper is the most commonly used base metal, yielding a redder color. Eighteen-carat gold containing 25% copper is found in antique and Russian jewelry and has a distinct, though not dominant, copper cast, creating rose gold. Fourteen-carat gold-copper alloy is nearly identical in color to certain bronze alloys, and both may be used to produce police and other badges. Blue gold can be made by alloying with iron and purple gold can be made by alloying with aluminium, although rarely done except in specialized jewelry. Blue gold is more brittle and therefore more difficult to work with when making jewelry. Fourteen- and eighteen-carat gold alloys with silver alone appear greenish-yellow and are referred to as green gold. White gold alloys can be made with palladium or nickel. White 18-carat gold containing 17.3% nickel, 5.5% zinc and 2.2% copper is silvery in appearance. Nickel is toxic, however, and its release from nickel white gold is controlled by legislation in Europe. Alternative white gold alloys are available based on palladium, silver and other white metals, but the palladium alloys are more expensive than those using nickel. High-carat white gold alloys are far more resistant to corrosion than are either pure silver or sterling silver.

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Figure 6 – Silver/White Precious Metal Chart

The best-known precious metals are the coinage metals, gold and silver. Although both have industrial uses, they are better known for their uses in art, jewellery, and coinage. Other precious metals include the platinum group metals: ruthenium, rhodium, palladium, osmium, iridium, and platinum, of which platinum is the most widely traded.

Platinums physical characteristics and chemical stability make it useful for industrial applications. Its resistance to wear and tarnish is well suited to use in fine jewelry.

Palladium itself has been used as a precious metal in jewelry since 1939, as an alternative to platinum for making white gold. This use resulted from the naturally white color of palladium, which required no rhodium plating. Palladium is much less dense than platinum. Similar to gold, palladium can be beaten into a thin leaf form.

Silver Jewelry is traditionally made from sterling silver (standard silver), an alloy of 92.5% silver with 7.5% copper. In the US, only an alloy consisting of at least 90.0% fine silver can be sold as “silver” (thus frequently stamped 900). Sterling silver (stamped 925) is harder than pure silver. Sterling silver jewelry is often plated with a thin coat of .999 fine silver to give the item a shiny finish. This process is called “flashing”. Silver jewelry can also be plated with rhodium.

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Figure 7 – Types of Earrings

STUD EARRINGS –  The main characteristic of stud earrings is the appearance of floating on the ear or earlobe without a visible (from the front) point of connection.

HOOP EARRINGS – are circular or semi-circular in design, and look very similar to a ring.

DROP EARRINGS –  attaches to the earlobe and features a gemstone or ornament that dangles down from a chain, hoop, or similar object.

DANGLE EARRINGS – are designed to flow from the bottoms of the earlobes, and are available in various lengths from a centimeter or two, all the way to brushing the shoulders.

BARBELL EARRINGS – get their name from their resemblance to a barbell, generally coming in the form of a metal bar with an orb on either end.

“HUGGY” EARRINGS – are a popular style of earring where the setting actually ‘hugs’ your earlobe. These can come in different shapes and sizes, from hearts to rectangles. Many custom jewelers make huggy earrings because of the many varieties of setting that can be used to make a good template

EAR THREAD – Earthreader, Ear String, Threader, a chain that is thin enough to slip into the ear hole, and come back out, dangles.

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Figure 8 – Types of Settings

BEZEL SETTING – The earliest known technique of attaching stones to jewelry was bezel setting. A bezel is a strip of metal bent into the shape and size of the stone and then soldered to the piece of jewelry. Then the stone is inserted into the bezel and the metal rubbed over the stone, holding it in place. This method works well for either cabochon or faceted stones.

PRONG SETTING – is the simplest and most common type of setting, largely because it uses the least amount of metal to hold the stone, thus showing it off to its best advantage.

CHANNEL SETTING – is a method whereby stones are suspended between two bars or strips of metal, called channels. Often when setting small stones and the bars go in a linear line with the design it is called channel setting, and when the bars cross the lines of the design, it is called bar set.

BEAD SETTING – is a generic term for setting a stone directly into metal using gravers, also called burins, which are essentially tiny chisels. A hole is drilled directly into the metal surface, and then a ball burr is used to make a concave depression just the size of the stone.

There are a variety of other types of gemstone setting available.  Please Contact Stadler’s Jewelry for all the options available to you.

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Figure 9 – Ring Anatomy

Above is a breakdown of the different areas that make a ring and what should be inspected for quality/durability and design.

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Figure 10 – Chemicals & Jewelry

Gold is a much better metal than silver for ease of care, as it does not tarnish and discolor. The only exceptions to this are some perfumes and cosmetics that will leave a slight tint to the color of the gold that is a darker golden or almost brownish gold. Because of this, it’s always a good idea to put your jewelry on last when getting ready. That being said, there are a few chemicals you need to avoid. The worst compound which should never come in contact with your gold jewelry, is mercury (like in the old thermometers). It will instantly soak into your gold and disappear, making it crumble kind of like a science fiction show right before your eyes. The second worst common compound is chlorine. Beware of this one in the form of clothes bleach, tile and bath cleaners, etc. Surprisingly, bromine is a form of chlorine which is commonly found in hot tubs and works in the same way. These compounds steal electrons from the gold mixture and leave your ring brittle so that it cracks rather than bends. As a result, prongs may snap off and the bottom of the ring can crack rather than bend as you repeatedly grab things with your hands. Swimming pool water is about 40 times less concentrated than a hot tub, so a dip in the pool isn’t as bad unless you are doing it frequently.

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